UTV Suspension Upgrades: Three Stages, Real Prices
Posted by JMerrell on Sep 28th 2026
Dune season starts October 1. That's when BLM permits kick in at the Imperial Sand Dunes, the Baja 1000 lands November 9–15, and our phone rings with the same question every day: I've got a budget — where do I spend it on suspension?
Here's the answer, in the order we'd spend it on our own race cars. Three stages, real prices, and the failure points that decide which one you need.

Start With What Actually Fails
Suspension upgrades don't start with travel numbers. They start with the part that bends first.
On a stock RZR XP1000, that's the radius rods — thin-wall mild steel with rubber-isolated ends. Land one flat-bottom hit at speed and they taco. On a Pro R or Turbo R the weak link moves outboard, to the stamped factory A-arms and the ball joints hanging off them. On a Maverick R, it's the trailing arms and the rods feeding them.
Notice what's not on that list: a shock. Riders hang a $9,000 shock package off parts that yield at half its capability, then wonder why the car still feels loose. Fix the structure first — shocks can only work through the arms holding them.
Stage 1: Radius Rods and Down Links
This is the highest-return dollar in UTV suspension, and it isn't close.
- 1.25" x .120 wall chromoly tubing – replaces thin-wall mild steel with the same tube spec we run in our race cars all season
- Chromoly rod ends, stainless inner and outer spacers – no rubber to deflect, no slop to develop
- Roughly 8–10x stronger than factory radius rods – and lighter than the stock parts they replace
- Welded in-house in the USA – on our own Miller welders, not jobbed out
- Fits 2014–2023 XP1000, Turbo and non-Turbo – 10mm spacers for 2014–2016, 12mm for 2017–2023
- Price: $500.00 – $525.00
See the Polaris RZR Chromoly Radius Rods. Add down links and the car survives the season. On Can-Am, the same move is the Maverick R Chromoly Radius Rods, $799.00 – $899.00.
Older XP1000? The Radius Rods + Down Links Race Package bundles both for $625.00 (1" x .095 chromoly, 2014–2020).

Stage 2: Chromoly A-Arms
Stage 2 is for the Pro R, Turbo R, and Maverick R crowd — cars with enough power and weight that the factory arms are the limit.
A 2027 Pro R leaves the dealer at 225 hp and an estimated 2,369 lbs dry, on 22.25" front wheel travel and 24.5" rear. A 2027 Maverick R X rs makes 240 hp at 2,388 lbs dry on 25" front and 25.5" rear. Polaris's and Can-Am's own numbers — and ones the stamped factory arms were built to just barely live with.
Our Pro R / Turbo R 4130 Chromoly A-Arms:
- 1.5" x .120 wall 4130 chromoly – uppers and lowers, tube mixed with plate on the lowers
- 1" higher clearance than factory on the lower arms — rocks and berms stop finding them
- 7/8" uniball at every corner – chromoly ball joint stud on the uppers, heat-treated ball joint pin on the lowers. No rubber, no rebuild every 500 miles
- 3/4-16 chromoly 3-piece rod ends on the uppers – caster and camber adjustable at the arm
- Delrin bushings on the lower pivot tubes – they don't deflect under load and they don't rot out
- Price: $1,375.00 uppers raw to $3,425.00 uppers and lowers powder coated

Stage 3: The Full +3 Long Travel Kit
Stage 3 is when you want the car wider and longer-legged, not just tougher. Two ways to get there on an XP1000 or Turbo:
- Chromoly Tube Long Travel Kit — from $3,675.00. 1.25" x .120 wall 4130 chromoly, HD chromoly ball joint pins, FK uniballs, boxed rear control arms, stainless hardware. Five configurations, from raw kit only up to powder coated with axles, down links, and tie rods. Advertised price is the MIG-welded raw kit — email us for a quote on your configuration, TIG included.
- +3 Heavy Duty Long Travel Suspension Kit — $6,499.99. CAD-designed, CNC laser cut and bent, every joint TIG welded. Adjustable shock location and adjustable inner rod end for caster and camber up front. Rear arms get mud flap protection, a triangle point deflector, and WSS10x wide bearings. 7/8" heat-treated ball joint studs, 7/8" uniball heims, Delrin bushings, rear radius rod plate, sway bar down links, and your choice of Summers Brothers 300M or Super ATV axles.
Running an Xpedition? The Polaris Xpedition +4 Long Travel Kit starts at $4,000.00 — 1.5" 4130 chromoly, +4" per side, clearance for 35" tires, Delrin bushings, 125 lbs. Powder coat, spring kit and axles are priced separately, and +4 Rhino 2.0 axles are required — the stock axles won't reach.

Which Stage Are You?
| Stage | What It Buys You | Material | Price | Who It's For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Stage 1 — Chromoly Radius Rods | Stops the first failure. Same width. | 1.25" x .120 chromoly | $500 – $525 | Stock-width duner who bent a rod |
| Stage 2 — Chromoly A-Arms | Clearance, adjustability, no rubber | 1.5" x .120 4130 chromoly | $1,375 – $3,425 | Pro R, Turbo R, Maverick R owners |
| Stage 3 — Tube LT Kit | +3 long travel, boxed rear arms | 1.25" x .120 4130 chromoly | from $3,675 | Wants long travel on a budget |
| Stage 3 — +3 Heavy Duty | +3 plus full adjustability, race spec | Chromoly, TIG, Delrin, WSS10x | $6,499.99 | Racers and hard-charging duners |
Why Chromoly and Delrin, Not Mild Steel and Rubber
Same argument we made about cages in DOM Steel vs. Seam-Welded Mild Steel. 4130 chromoly carries far more tensile and yield strength per pound than mild steel, so we hit a target strength with less wall and less weight — unsprung weight you don't pay for on every bump.

Delrin matters as much and gets ignored. Rubber bushings are a compliance device — they let the arm move where it shouldn't. Under a 2,400-lb car making 240 hp, that becomes vague steering and uneven tire wear. Delrin doesn't deflect, doesn't absorb water, and doesn't crumble after one hot Baja weekend.
And it's all built here — cut, bent, and welded in our own shop on Miller welders. The +3 Heavy Duty kit and our race parts are fully TIG welded; the Tube kit ships MIG as advertised, TIG available. We race what we sell, all year, and we don't get to hide a bad weld behind a warranty department.
FAQ
Do I need long travel even if I don't race?
Yes. Long travel isn't a race-only part — it adds strength and performance for the Glamis or desert hobbyist just the same. The wider stance settles the car at speed and through the whoops, the extra travel soaks up chop instead of kicking it through the seat, and every joint is chromoly and Delrin where the factory put stamped steel and rubber. You get a car that rides better and quits breaking at the same time. Stage 1 is the entry point if that's where the budget lands today — long travel is what changes how the car feels everywhere.
Will a +3 kit fit my stock shocks?
The +3 Heavy Duty kit has adjustable shock location, so there's room for stock or aftermarket. Call us with your shock package before you order — this is the one detail worth a phone call.
Are chromoly radius rods really 8–10x stronger?
That's the figure for our 1.25" x .120 wall chromoly rods versus the factory mild steel rods they replace. Tube diameter, wall thickness, and the chromoly rod ends all contribute. They're lighter than stock, too.
Do I need new axles with a +3 kit?
Yes. A +3 kit widens the car past what the stock axles can reach. Both kits offer axle options — Summers Brothers 300M or Super ATV on the Heavy Duty kit. The same goes for the Xpedition +4 kit, which requires +4 Rhino 2.0 axles.
What about the new Pro R Boost?
275 hp and 2,531 lbs — 50 more horsepower and 160 more pounds than a Pro R, through the same factory arm. Full comparison in Pro R vs. Pro R Boost. Short version: the chromoly arms go from "recommended" to "buy them first."
Join the Wolfpack
Dune season starts in days and the Baja 1000 is right behind it. Whichever stage you're in, these parts are built here, welded here, and raced here.
Browse the Polaris lineup or the Can-Am lineup, or call the shop and tell us what you broke. We'll tell you which stage you need.
Join the Wolfpack. Built in the USA, proven in the dirt.